Yarns – Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design

There are two main types of yarn: staple yarn (also called spun yarn) made with shorter fibers, and filament yarn, made from long continuous filament fibers. The yarn spinning process which brings fibers together can be done by machine or hand, providing different qualities and creating different yarn structures. Factors such as the length of the fiber, yarn count, and twist direction can all contribute to the appearance, strength, and other properties of fabrics.

Staple Yarn

Staple or spun yarn are fibers that are short in length. Staple fibers must he spun or twisted together to make a long, continuous strand of yam. Staple yarns can contain a single type of fiber or can be blended with various types – most commonly synthetic with natural fibers.

Ring Spinning

Oldest spinning method
Silvers are drafted into rovings and twisted into yarns before being wound onto the bobbin
Results in strong yarn
Finest yarn
Large range of yarn count
Suitable for all staple fibers
Slowest production rate
More steps required

Open-End Friction Spinning

1970s and early 1980s
Spun from silvers using spinning rotor with withdrawal system to create false twisted yarns
Results in week yarn
Less well aligned yarn
Small range yarn
Not suitable for man-made fibers, except rayon
Faster production rate than ring spinning
Fewer steps needed

Open-End Rotor Spinning

1970s and early 1980s
Spun from silvers using spinning rotor with withdrawal system to create false twisted yarns
Results in week yarn
Less well aligned yarn
Small range yarn
Not suitable for man-made fibers, except rayon
Faster production rate than ring spinning
Fewer steps needed

Air Jet Spinning

Early 1980s
Silvers are drafted and fed into a vortex created by high-speed air jets to create false twists
Results in week yarn
Less well aligned yarn
Small range yarn
Commonly used for producing polyester
Fastest production rate (20 times faster than ring spinning)
Fewer steps needed

Filament Yarn

Filament yarn is yarn that is continuous in length. By forcing liquid or semi-liquid polymers through small holes, a single or multiple filament yarn is created. Filament yarns can be grouped into bundles. and cut into desired staple lengths. Silk is the only natural filament yarn.

Wet Spinning

Polymers are dissolved in solvent and extruded directly into a liquid bath
Viscose rayon, acrylic, aramid, spandex
Low investment cost
Small amount of yarn production
Toxic production process
Slow production rate

Dry Spinning

Polymers are dissolved In a volatile solvent which evaporates when extruded
Acetate, acrylic
High investment cost
Small amount of yarn production
Toxic production process, risk of explosion
Fast production rate

Melt Spinning

Polymer granules are melted and then extruded through the spin head
Polyester, nylon
Low investment cost
Larger amount of yarn production
Non-toxic production process
Fastest production rate

Processing Yarn

	Carded A low cost yarn production process creating fuzzy yarn for lightweight fabric.	Combed A more expensive yarn production process creating smoother and softer yarn. This method includes carding and additional processes that produce more waste.	Woolen Woolen threads are uneven fiber made from carded and uneven fibers.	Worsted Worsted yarns are combed wool yarn made from paralleled wool fibers.
Fiber	Cotton, waste silk, plant fiber, hair or wool fibers, and synthetic staple fibers.	Fine cotton and all fibers after carding.
Fiber Length	Short, medium and long length of fibers.	Long staple fibers.	25.4 – 76.2mm short fibers.	76.2mm or above long staple fibers.
Characteristics	• Non-uniformed • Usually coarser to touch • Easily shrunk	• Straight and aligned fiber • Soft and smooth to the touch • Lustrous in appearance	• Bulky and uneven • Slackly twisted • Soft and hairy	• Fine and even • Tightly twisted • Soft and hairy

Ply Yarn

While all yarns are originally spun as a single yarns. they may be twisted together to produce a “ply yarn” for different end uses. One of the most commonly produced yarns is 2-ply yarn which is formed by twisted single yarns together with the ply twist opposite to the direction of the yarn twist. Yarns with a higher ply number can create longer and less wrinkly fabrics.

2-PLY

Two single yarns twisted together to increase strength, balance, and durability compared to a single yarn.

3-PLY

Three single yarns twisted together, creating a rounder yarn with improved stability and more uniform fabric structure.

3-PLY Crepe

Three highly twisted yarns combined to create a crepe effect, resulting in a lively, textured surface with natural elasticity.

4-PLY

Four single yarns twisted together, producing a stronger, smoother yarn with reduced wrinkling and increased fabric body.

4-PLY Cable

Two or more plied yarns twisted together in the opposite direction, forming a dense, highly stable yarn with maximum strength and durability.

Yarn Twist

Yarn twists are used to capture fibres and secure them. They influence the appearance, handle, and performance properties of yarn and fabric.

Direction

The direction of twist affects light reflection and the visual appearance of a fabric. Twist direction is described as either S twist or Z twist, where most spun yarns have a Z twist.

Twist direction does not significantly affect the properties of a single yarn, but the ply twist direction is generally opposite to the yarn twist direction.
Smooth fabrics typically maintain a consistent yarn and ply twist direction, while textured fabrics often use mixed twist directions.

S-Twist: Thread appears to move upwards towards the left.

Z-Twist: Thread appears to move upwards towards the right.

Level

The twist level is determined by the number of turns present in a unit length of yarn. A high-twist yarn has more twists per unit length compared to a low-twist yarn.

Twist level influences yarn strength, elongation, and air permeability. Yarns used for weaving typically have a higher twist, resulting in smoother surfaces and greater lengthwise strength, while yarns used for knitting generally have a looser twist.

Low-Twist: Used to create bulky, soft, and fuzzy fabrics.

High-Twist: Used to create smoother surfaces and denser fabrics.

Complex Yarn & Texture Yarn

Complex Yarn

Complex yarns, sometimes referred to as novelty yarns, are single or plied yarn structures with irregularities. Used to make fabrics more interesting, these irregularities can relate to size, twist effect, or color. For example, yarns that are thicker, thinner, or having curls, loops, or twists.