Double Fold Hem

A double fold hem is created by folding the raw edge of the fabric twice toward the inside and stitching it in place. In the wide variation, the folded section is broader, giving the hem extra strength, weight, and durability. With three rows of visible stitching, it provides a decorative effect as well as reinforcement. This hem is ideal for denim, workwear, curtains, and other garments or textiles where a clean, heavy-duty finish is required.

Main Properties

  • Resistance: Good
  • Versatility: Very good.
    A piece of interfacing (or interlining) might be needed to get the best result.
  • Flexibility: Good. 
  • Elasticity: Good. 
  • Cost: Regular. 

Common Uses

  • Hems on woven fabrics: blouses, dresses, skirts, bags, home-decor accessories.
  • Bottoms of formal trousers and skirts.
  • Sleeve hems.
  • Plackets of shirts and outwear.
  • Jacket sleeve slits and back vents.
  • Pocket openings.
  • Reversible garments.

Related Seams

Step By Step

Step 1

Stitch

Fold the seam allowance in, and then fold the hem according to the width that you wish.

Step 2

Topstitch

Sew along the inner seam line.

Step 3

Topstitch

Sew the other topstitch parallel to the previous one.

Step 4

Topstitch

Sew the third topstitch parallel to the edge of the hem.

Step 5

Final

Facts

  • Good choice to add extra weight to the hem.
  • Neat finishing on the inside.
  • Hem-Width is usually 3cm wide (in inches: 1.2”), however, it could vary depending on the design (designers should specify this measure on the tech pack). 
  • Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.