Hong Kong Seam

A Hong Kong seam is a clean finishing technique where the raw seam allowances are enclosed with a strip of bias binding. The seam itself is pressed open, and each allowance is bound separately, leaving the inside of the garment looking polished and decorative. This method is often used in unlined jackets, coats, and tailored garments to achieve a professional interior finish. It can also add a subtle design element if the binding contrasts with the fabric.

Main Properties

• Resistance: Regular to good.
  It is stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics.
• Versatility: Good.
  Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight.
• Flexibility: Good. 
• Elasticity: Poor. 
• Cost: High.

Common Uses

• High-end garments.
• Unlined garments and exposed seams, for instance: jackets and coats.
• Reversible garments.
• Bags and accessories.

Related Seams

Step By Step

Step 1

Stitch

Sew along the seam allowance and facing the right sides together.

Step 2

Stitch

Fold down the seam allowance underneath. Then place the binding facing the seam allowance and sew them along the edge.

Note: Follow the previous stitch to get an even seam.

Step 3

Topstitch

Open up the fabric and fold down the binding. Then sew along the interior edge of the binding.

Step 4

Repeat

Then, repeat steps 2 and 3 to finish the other side of the seam.

Step 5

Final