Open Seam

In a single-fold open seam, the seam allowances are pressed open and each side is folded under once. This prevents fraying and reduces bulk while keeping the seam flexible. It is a practical choice for lightweight to medium fabrics where a neat inside finish is desired.

Main Properties

  • Resistance: Regular to poor.
    It gets stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics.
  • Versatility: Very good.
    Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight.
  • Flexibility: Excellent. 
  • Elasticity: Good. 
  • Cost: Regular.

Common Uses

  • Lined garments such as jackets and coats.
  • Collar band seam.
  • Side seams of formal trousers and skirts (not suitable on tight fit).
  • Bags and shoes.
  • Fur industry.

Related Seams

Step By Step

Step 1

Stitch

Sew the fabric along the seam allowance and facing the right sides together.

Step 2

Open Up

Open up the seam towards the right side.

Step 3

Topstitch

Sew along on one of the edges of the seam.

Step 4

Topstitch

Sew along the other edge of the seam.

Step 5

Final

Facts

  • Also known as “Butterfly Seam” or “Plain Seam”.
  • Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
  • Seam allowance might need serged edges or topstitching to avoid fraying and raveling.