Welt Seam

A welt seam, encloses the raw edges by folding one seam allowance over the other and stitching it in place. This creates a clean, durable finish with two visible rows of stitching on the outside. It is commonly used in denim, outerwear, and reversible garments where both strength and a polished appearance are required.

Main Properties

  • Resistance: Very good to excellent.
  • Versatility: Good.
    It works better on medium-weight fabrics.
  • Flexibility: Poor to regular.
  • Elasticity: Poor.
    Stretch resistance.
  • Cost: Regular.

Common Uses

  • Give more strength to the seam.
  • Decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
  • High quality garments.
  • Unlined jackets, coats and outwear in general.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos (also see CD101 and CE101).

Related Seams

Step By Step

Step 1

Stitch

Sew along the edge facing the right side together. The seam allowance of the fabric underneath is twice wider than the upper one.

Step 2

Fold Up

Fold up the longer seam allowance towards the shorter one.

Step 3

Fold Up

Open the seam towards the right side of the fabric.

Step 4

Topstitch

Sew along the folded edge.

Step 5

Final

Facts

  • Also called “Flat Felled Seam”, “Self Bound Seam”, “English Seam” or “Dobbeltsøm” in Danish. 
  • Neat finish on the inside.
  • The binding must have the same care techniques as the fabric.
  • Reversible.
  • In the industry, it is made by one only step.
  • It prevents the seam allowance from fraying.